Eats: Lynn’s Inn

BY LINDA SALISBURY

FOR THE FREE LANCE–STAR

This word may not earn points in Scrabble but put it in your culinary vocabulary: mojoz.

It’s a version of the Shakey’s Pizza’s famous MoJo batter-fried potatoes now served by Lynn’s Inn in Port Royal. The large, thin, seasoned slices of potatoes are on the menu as an appetizer or side and are a fun alternative to french fries (also available). Restaurant owner Lynn Corbin remembered the MoJo originals served at Shakey’s from when she was child, and like many MoJo devotees, came up with her own variation.

Lynn’s Inn opened in January in the historic Port Royal Tavern building (circa 1852). Prior to starting her own restaurant, Corbin had run Buster’s Place, just to the north.

My Dining Partner and I visited the inn on a Sunday when many customers were still enjoying the breakfast buffet ($10). We decided to order from the menu and began with an appetizer of fried green tomatoes ($7). They had a good batter that adhered to the tomatoes without covering the tart flavor, and we liked the accompanying spicy mayo sauce. We also split a large house salad ($4) with homemade balsamic vinegar. In addition to greens, the salad included onion, tomato, cucumber, croutons and shredded cheese. There was plenty for two people.

I ordered a broiled flounder sandwich on a Kaiser roll ($10), with mojoz substituted for the regular fries. The sub-size sandwich came on a platter rather than a plate to accommodate those big, flat potato darlings. And good they are! So was my fish, nicely broiled so that it was not overcooked.

MDP ordered the Knife and Fork Sandwich ($11) made with steak (chicken was the other option). He described it as similar to an open-face steak sandwich with melted Provolone cheese on pita bread. Amid the tender pieces of steak were sautéed onions, mushrooms, green peppers and it was topped with cucumber slices. He polished off his pile of mojoz, as well.

Although desserts are not made by the restaurant, at our enthusiastic server’s suggestion we decided to try them: slices of toasted almond cake and lemoncelli cake (each $5).

These are incredible confections. The former, drenched with almond flavor, and topped with crunchy nuts, had the consistency of a tiramisu married to mousse. The lemoncelli cake also earns high honors. Filled with a lemon curd, the lemon cake topped with creamy lemon frosting was summery and incredibly delicious.

The menu has originality, value and quality from mojoz to fantastic cakes. It’s a place on the return-visit list, where we might try steak, chicken or pasta on the dinner menu.

What: Lynn’s Inn

Address: 304 Main St. (State Route 301), Port Royal, just south of the Rappahannock River bridge

Info: 804/884-0006;  lynnsinn1852.com.

Hours: Friday and Sunday, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Tuesday to Thursday, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Prices: Appetizers: $5–$7; Soups and salads: $4–$9; Sandwiches: $5–$11; Dinners: $10–$22; Children’s menu: $6; Desserts: $5; Beer, wine license applied for.

The Scoop: Homey atmosphere and helpful service, wheelchair accessible, family-friendly and great food.

Payment: Major credit cards accepted.

Linda Salisbury is the author of the  Bailey Fish books, an award-winning  adventure series for kids.

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