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Butcher shops focus of today’s Food section

Food writer Kurt Rabin puts a local spin on a trend that’s gotten ink in a lot of national food publications in recent years: the comeback of the small butcher shop.

Rabin’s story (it doesn’t appear to be online at the moment, but check out the print edition) in today’s Food section focuses on Lee Russell’s Olde Towne Butcher on William Street, which recently celebrated its one-year anniversary and has added something useful to its product line every time I go in there.

If Rabin has piqued your interest, here are a few other butcher-related writings that have caught my eye recently:

This New York Times story on young “rock star” butcher’s apprentices goes back to 2009, but I remember reading it just as Russell was getting his shop set up.

Cleaving: A Story of Marriage, Meat and Obsession is Julie & Julia author Julie Powell’s memoir of the time she spent in a very intriguing artisan butcher shop in New York’s Hudson River valley. Warning: About half the book is about the butcher shop; the other half, intertwined with the butchering bits, is a self-indulgent wallow in Powell’s own marital problems, and she’s not exactly a sympathetic character.

Flavor magazine, a regional food publication, looked at other small butcher shops in our region in October 2009 (Time flies; it doesn’t seem like that long since I read that story). If you’re looking for meat purveyors in other parts of Virginia, check it out.

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